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Author   Topic : "Prints of digital work"
Pongo
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Joined: 09 Oct 2001
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Location: Minneapolis, MN

PostPosted: Tue Mar 30, 2004 3:58 pm     Reply with quote
Just curious if anyone has had high quality prints made of their work?

I would like to have a series of prints made, but I have a few questions.
1. What res do you normally work at? I'm thinking prints in the 2-3' range, so at 300 dpi that would be just over 10000 pixels? Do you work that high res? I've been making some pieces at 4000 but I'm not sure it's enough.
If you do work at that high of a resolution, do you start with that size, or do you create a smaller version and then blow it up and fill in details on the full size version?

2. Another option for some of the prints would be that I would want the digital nature to show through, so I would not mind seeing the pixels. In this case I would like the image blown up without interpolation, so the pixels remain sharp and do not blur. Would this look like a printing error though? Opinions?

3. Any particular methods to look for or avoid when having this done?

Thanks for any input.
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DJorgensen
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Joined: 26 Jun 2003
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Location: Edmonton, Canada

PostPosted: Tue Mar 30, 2004 6:15 pm     Reply with quote
eyewoo made a tutorial on this a couple of months back. Hope this helps:

the thread

the tutorial
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Pongo
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Location: Minneapolis, MN

PostPosted: Tue Mar 30, 2004 8:10 pm     Reply with quote
Nice little tut, but I'm looking at having high quality prints made up rather than printing them myself. My printer does an awesome job, but I'm looking to have something that has value as an art print, and will not be subject to fading.

I see in the tut the work was created at 150 dpi. Is that going to be enough for a good quality print? I have some people interested in some illustrations from me and I want to deliver the highest quality print I can to them. My normal line of work is in animation, so print stuff is a little new to me. I guess I can print off some samples at different dpi on my printer, but I was wondering if there were any standards for this stuff.
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V Shane
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Joined: 26 Jul 2001
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Location: Other side of your screen

PostPosted: Thu Apr 01, 2004 4:14 pm     Reply with quote
I did this recently and my prints turned out EXACTLY like what I see on my screen. I did this at Wal-Mart, don't laugh until you see the results. DON"T deal with CMYK, it blows chunks. Nothing really has the reproduction ability of RGB, I do digital oil paintings, millions of colors.

I had an idea, the other day. I went to Walmart with 5 paintings on a CD. Saved in High resolution 300dpi 8x10 (12 setting in Photoshop) Jpeg. Went to one of those "do it yourself " PHOTOPRINTS. I selected 8 x 10 as I had previously resized my images to those specs.

When they printed out, it blew my f**** doors off. The images came out exactly like I see on my screen. I really was incredibly happy about this. I send my samples to book companys, and all other print attempts failed horribly (CMYK dimension). Personaly I have no interest in selling prints (even though there is dead section attempt on my site). It is quite a feeling to have your digital images so easly reproduced and perfect. Next week I am having 11 x 14s done.

Try it, you'll find it addicting! (4x6 are.38 cents, 8x10 are$5 each)
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xheadinthecloudx
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Location: Philadelphia, PA - USA

PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 2004 6:54 am     Reply with quote
V Shane wrote:
I did this recently and my prints turned out EXACTLY like what I see on my screen. I did this at Wal-Mart, don't laugh until you see the results. DON"T deal with CMYK, it blows chunks. Nothing really has the reproduction ability of RGB, I do digital oil paintings, millions of colors.


The short:

Consumer & prosumer inkjets often do just as well, if not better with an RGB image than a CMYK image. However, for a job taken to a professional print shop, you'll want to have the final product be CMYK. Also, while a 300dpi file is good for something that will be held and closely examined, larger pieces are fine with 150dpi (or lower, sometimes).

The long:

VShane, that's because you went to Walmart. Walmart, Target, and the other "print it yourself" places use mid-range inkjets that anyone can wander into Best Buy or CompUSA and buy. (Epsons or HP, generally). I'm not knocking it - you get good results, and you can do it yourself with a little patience and some trial and error and a good, hi-res image, and these printers often do better with RGB than CMYK.

If you take your pieces to a real print shop, you can create them in RGB if you want (and you probably should for a 'painting' - monitors really do display best in RGB), but the service bureau will convert them to CMYK before printing (and charge you for file handling). This is for the postscript rip (think complex high-end printer software and color calibration). Sending an RGB image to a postcript printer can be unrealiable sometimes - colors do not come out exactly as intended. Also, the conversion to CMYK can cause a color shift (whites may not be true white, blacks may not be true black).

As far as the original resolution question: 150dpi is fine - there is a general rule we follow where I work. Postcards and ads are as close to 300dpi as possible. People will hold these pretty close to their faces, and they'll notice pixelation. Smaller posters (up to 2'x3') are fine at 150dpi - generally people don't stand too close to them. Larger posters are ok at 72dpi. Again, this is to keep file size down, and because people will be viewing them from a distance. Even my really good vision will blur away the pixelation (and the detail) from a few feet on an image like that. Stand a few feet from a poster (I'm looking at a poster from the Guggenheim, from their old "Zen and the Art of the Motorcycle exhibit) - looks sharp, right? Stand closer. They're actually pretty low-res files.

Heck, billboards are done at a ratio that works out to something like 30dpi. Also, large format printers (not so much an issue for the size you're working at, but something to keep in mind for truly large work) often work at a larger dot size that negates the benefits of a super hi-res image.
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B0b
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Joined: 14 Jul 2002
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Location: Sunny Dorset, England

PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 2004 2:03 pm     Reply with quote
ask whoever your going to get the offset lytho prints made with what line screen they use and double it for the dpi you need to work @

when painting in Photoshop select the CMYK preview option - set your monitor white point to 5000K and gamma to 1.8 - if your going for a large print run get a wet proof or a cromalin made so you can make any fine adjustments to colour..
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Impaler
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Joined: 02 Dec 1999
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Location: Albuquerque.NewMexico.USA

PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 2004 2:34 pm     Reply with quote
xheadinthecloudx: I could be very mistaken, but I think the kiosks in Wal-Mart and those of similar ilk now handle digital files the same way most camera shops handle them. Basically, instead of printing a picture in CMYK, the picture is projected onto a piece of photo paper by a CRT in RGB (acroynym overload in 3.. 2..). This is just a pointless aside, since Wal-Mart's are notoriously bad about changing out their exposure chemicals and keeping their machines clean, but it's nice to know that there is a third and viable option, apart from printing it yourself on an inkjet, or taking it to an expensive print shop.
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V Shane
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 06, 2004 7:22 am     Reply with quote
Yeah these were done with Fuji RGB lasers on photo paper (I asked). But I won't defend the issue, I know what I see and its nothing that ever came out of any printer I have ever used commercially or personal.
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Malachi Maloney
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 06, 2004 8:50 am     Reply with quote
Stay away from laser printers. Best advice I can give you.


~M~
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V Shane
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 07, 2004 10:51 am     Reply with quote
not what I meant. The lasers create a chemical reaction on the chemicaly coated paper. THERE IS NO INK, its created just as a photo, THERE IS NO PRINTING...sheesh
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balistic
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Location: Reno, NV, USA

PostPosted: Wed Apr 07, 2004 11:46 am     Reply with quote
V Shane wrote:
not what I meant. The lasers create a chemical reaction on the chemicaly coated paper. THERE IS NO INK, its created just as a photo, THERE IS NO PRINTING...sheesh


I think you're describing what's commonly called a lightjet print. There aren't any real lasers involved though. What happens is that a piece of photo-sensative paper is exposed to a CRT with the image on it.

I like this method for reproducing digital art, because the image never leaves RGB color space, so it will look exactly the way it looks on a monitor. There's also no ink to smudge like there is with a giclee print.
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V Shane
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2004 7:36 am     Reply with quote
Hey thanks! its good to have a "name" to call it. LightJet...

excellent, sound like you know your stuff ballistic Cool
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xray360
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Location: NY

PostPosted: Sat Apr 10, 2004 12:21 pm     Reply with quote
I started working at 20x30 inchs at 150 dpi or 3000x4500px The other size I work with depending on the composition of my art is 16x20 inchs at 150 dpi or 2400x3000px

I would work at 300 dpi making the 20x30 6000x9000px but my computer runs slow and makes my work flow stressful. When printing 150dpi seems to be the minimum, and the quality is fine. Also never blow up an image to fit the size of the print because that will ruin the quality.
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