[Moro]

Hey guys and gals...how many of you use design marker for your stuff? Alcohol-based markers like Tria or Prismacolor? I have a few questions for you...

What kind of pens do you use to ink your stuff before you color it with marker? All of the pens I use seem to bleed when I use my markers on them.

I use the Tria markers by Letraset. I have been collecting them one by one for a while now, and I have almost 200 of them, but I have no tray for them! Right now they're in a big bucket and I avoid using them because I don't like dumping almost 200 pens all over the floor, and playing "hide and seek" for 3 minutes trying to find the color I need. I can't find marker organizers for Trias anywhere! There was one on MisterArt.com for 48 pens...but they're always out of stock. It seems the only way to get the marker organizer for the Trias is to buy the set of 288 or so for 700 bucks! Has anyone seen organizers for Tria pens, or do they know how I could contact the manufacturer? Thanks!

[Francis]

I use Trias at work. I like them a little better than the Prismacolors - they seem less saturated, more like watercolors. I usually use them over pencil or over Itoya pigment pens.

Here's an example:
http://www.rivenguild.com/myst3exile/conceptdrawings/o.jpg

Also, here in San Diego I've been able to buy the 25-slot marker holders separately. I think they're a couple of dollars. Try looking at www.artstore.com. I don't know if they do mail order or not, but that's where I went to buy them.

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[This message has been edited by Francis (edited June 19, 2000).]

[zapman]

Moro, I am not "Design Maker" but can offer some advice =)

1st Use Fine tip pen (Acid-free, NON-WATERPROOF) Let the Artwork Dry for long time (1hr-2hr, or a day for best)
Let me know if that works.




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ZAPmAn
Digitize Design
art, fart, and be smart.

[zapman]

Ohh onther idea,
Use Pencil (lightly sketching out the artwork, then go in with Markers; color it up! After that Use the Pen.



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ZAPmAn
Digitize Design
art, fart, and be smart.

[Sc00p]

For design, I use tria pantone markers, I have a small set of brights, and a 12-pack of cool greys which is ESSENTIAL, and on the side, I have about 30 colors in the prismacolor series (which don't blend as well), and then I have the all-expensive Tria blender. Greys should be the first thing you pick up, because it turns 1 color, into 100 more through shading. Also, for highlights, I use prismacolor white pencil crayons. Then I finish up the design with a .5 or 1pt(point) marker pen. I am particular to the pigma micron pen series, although the brush tips tend to bend and break if you're not careful.

Also, for blending purposes mostly, get some Beinfang Rag marker layout paper, it soaks up more moisture from the blender than the letraset marker layout paper does, giving you more time to blend (less screw-ups). Marker layout paper as opposed to regular bond paper is a VERY good idea, because it does not bleed.

When you buy a pack of 12 tria markers (ie: set of cool greys), there is an ordering booklet inside. You might be able to order cases through there. I'm not exactly sure because I always throw those booklets out

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Rene Antunes
www.nytro.org
[email protected]



[This message has been edited by Sc00p (edited June 17, 2000).]

[micke]

I use Tria.

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-Mikael Noguchi-

http://www.katode.org/noguchi/

[Fred Flick Stone]

Tria and prisma color. I like the tria for the grey tone studies. Like the way it looks with its wet like appearance. But I like prismacolor for character design and color comp work. They feel more like paint, a tad harder to keep smooth flat tones, so you end up painting with the marker more than the typical techno approach...

[HumanClay]

I use Tria and Prisma Color as well. Like Fred, I tend to use my Trias for greyscale studies and my Prismas for comp work. I also have a set of Prisma Color Water Color markers which are incredible. They have a soft brush tip, which makes it more like painting.. only with a little more control and flexibility.

[TJFrame]

I think its best to do line work with a pencil or light ball point first then markers then finish with your black pen line work.

Another option if you dont mind markers on plain paper is to make copies of the pen line work then marker up the copies. A good quality copier can give copies with line work pretty much indistinguishable from the real thing if viewed at a slight distance.

This technique has several advantages. You can white out mistakes in the line drawing and they wont be noticeable in the copy. You can play around with tinted papers in the copier if you want. Of course you can scale the copies up or down. Finally, you can make multiple copies of a drawing and then feel free to experiment with the markering process because you wont ruin the original.

If you dont have access to a good xerox machine and you dont mind only 8.5 x 11 output, you can scan in the line drawing and tweak it in Photoshop. Then print it back out on a laser printer and marker up that.

I also mix and match markers depending on who has the exact colors I want. I use fat super-black AD markers for background swatches (but they stink big time) and interchange trias and prismas for the main hues. I use a hard to find marker called a SCUF pen for line work.

As far as bleeding, i think that a bit of bleed is okay at least for Concept Art, and that it gives a looser, more dynamic look to the sketch. The same thing with the pen work. A SCUF pen on bond paper pools up when you slow down and can be used to give the sketch a nice fresh feel. Line work that is too crisp feels sterile to me.

-TJ